There has been a lot said and written about variable speed pumps and how they will save the consumer thousands of dollars in electric cost.  Even our state governments have been convinced that they are a cost-saving device for the end user and have enacted laws that force new pools to have ONLY multi or 2-speed systems installed and if your current single-speed motor breaks down, welcome to the variable speed world!  As for me, I’m not so sure.

I have serviced swimming pools in Florida for about 10 years, and what I know for a fact is that the pool water must turn over at least 1 time in a 6-8 hour period.  This means that all the water must circulate through the pump and filter in order to maintain sanitation.  Also, that there must be sufficient pressure in the system to force water into tablet chlorinators. Without it, the tablets will not break down and provide chlorine.  The same can be said about salt systems, a lack of water pressure will keep the flo switch from being activated and no chlorine will be generated.

What I have experienced to date is that variable speed and 2-speed pumps often fall short in this area. In every case I have seen, the variable speed pump most be run at 80% or higher to maintain water pressure to operate either system. So where is the savings?

The following is a snip from an ad regarding Turn Over and Run Times:

This is how to compare apples and oranges. Lets use a system that turns water over almost 2 times vs 1 and has to run extra hours to do it. Notice the references (orange dots) which state: “Number of times per day that the total volume of your pool water circulates through the pump/filter system. Recommend a minimum of 1 time per day to maintain sanitation.”

The other states: “Includes operation at higher speed for variable and 2 speed pumps that may be necessary to operate other equipment such as heaters, water features, etc.” Notice they did not add Chlorinators or Flo switches, just that you have to run at higher speeds in order to work them.

And if this isn’t enough to make you think twice, look at the cost: Single speed 1.5HP pump ($709.35 Retail Max Flo vs ($2420.60 Retail EcoStar variable Speed) But look at the savings of $157 to $270 a year, it would only take almost 11 years to recover the cost. Again, where is the savings.

If you think that there is something wrong with our state’s thinking, let them know, it’s your money.

DAD’s Pool

By definition, a Micron is the space between 2 fibers. Generally speaking, the smaller the space the better the filtration. This is how filters are compared and sold. To put a Micron into something you can visualize, 1 grain of salt is about 100 microns. An average person can only see down to about 35 microns. My point has always been, does it matter if your filter can get down to 3 microns, you can’t see it any way, how will you know? Many are led to believe that the better the filtration the less chance of there being any disease causing bacteria in the water. The filter only filters out particles such as dirt, bacteria are killed with chlorine through sanitation not filtering.

SAND FILTERS have been in existence for a long time and generally do a good job starting off at 40 microns when clean and getting more efficient when dirt accumulates to around 20 microns. The problem with this reasoning–the dirtier the filter the better it works–is that as it gets dirty, it restricts the amount of water flowing through it. I would rather have a lot of water getting filtered good than a little water getting filtered better. A quick backwash and a sand filter will be operating back at around 40 microns. Backwash sand filters regularly, weekly is best, monthly at the least.

DE FILTERS or Diatomaceous Earth, filters down to 3 microns. The DE powder needs to be changed regularly and extreme caution should be taken when handling the powder as it can be harmful. Read the package and pay attention to the warnings–the powder is not good for you. Some areas now prohibit backwashed DE from being blown onto the lawn or down a sanitary drain. Drains can get plugged up from the DE, on the lawn the DE dries out and becomes a powder again–its not good for you.

In its wet form DE is an excellent filtering agent. In our pool service we change DE every 4 months. Always inspect the pool for any powder coming back into it, this could mean a tear in the media fabric or hole in other parts. DE should not be circulated back into the pool.

CARTRIDGE FILTERS strain at about 20 microns and as with sand filters, tend to get better when dirty, down to about 5 microns. But as with sand filters at what point does the dirt slow the circulation. We recommend keeping the cartridge clean and at DAD’s Pool we wash them weekly and multi-cartridge units monthly. We have a saying that a clean filter means a clean pool. Cartridges should last at least 2 years if cleaned regularly.

In our opinion, there are Good, Better and Best cartridges. Pleatco standard filter is a Good all-around filter. They can tear easily and may need to be changed more often. Unicel makes a Better and is the easiest to clean. Their media is folded like a “w” rather than than a “m”, meaning that folds don’t touch and allowing a stream of water to get deep into the folds for a good cleaning. And a Best is Pleatco with Microban, a sturdier media that holds up longer. There are other cartridges available and some are paper thin. Although they look the same, they are not.

To sum up, Sand Filters work well but only filter down to where a cartridge filter starts. DE filters the best, however, disposal and recharging of the DE is hazardous. Cartridge filters work well, are easy to clean and dispose of. We service all three but in my pool I use a cartridge. That’s my opinion.

DAD’s Pool

Follow this simple formula and calculate the cost of your pool pump or any household appliance.

watts/1000 = kW x hours of operation = kWh x kWh rate = cost

For example, look at the pool pump motor, towards the back and near the top there is a information plate and on the information plate there will be an item that looks like:  KW 1.55, this is the amount of kilowatts that motor will use in 1 hour.  To put it to use, take this number and include it in the formula. For example:

1.55 (killowatts) x 8 (hours the pump runs) = 12.4 x $.13 = $1.61 for one days use or x 30 for an average month $48.30.  The $.13 comes from published estimate from Florida Power and Light in central Florida, use your areas numbers for best results.

To put that number in perspective consider:

Grande Lotte at Starbucks      $3.55

Red Bull from Walgreens       $3.99

6 inch sub at Sub Way           $4.50

One days house usage          $3.23 (FPL estimates 2012)

If the only information you are getting is amps, then the formula changes to:

8 amps x 120 volts household current = 960 watts/1000 = .96 kW x 45 hours = 43.2 kWh x $.13 = 5.62

The time it takes to initially warm your pool or spa depends on several factors.

First, determine how many gallons of water are to be heated.  Knowing this, you can then compute the equivalent pound of water involved, and the BTU’s necessary to heat the volume of water to the desired temperature.

Note also that if you are trying to heat up an attached spa, only use the volume of the spa, as the whole pool and spa don’t need to be heated.  And then don’t forget to turn off the pool circulation, only using the spa.

Next find the approximate BTU output of your heater.  This can be found on the information plate on the heater or in your manual.  To be more accurate, determine the BTU output at the current temperature or expected temp at the time you want to use it if only heating the attached spa.  This will be harder to find but try the manufacture of your heater for specifics, they may have them on their web site.

Finally, decide at what temperature you plan to either maintain your pool at, or increase the temp to.

The following work sheet can be used to calculate approximate time required for your heater to bring the pool or spa to the desired temperature.  Keep in mind heating times will vary somewhat due to weather conditions and the use of a pool blanket can greatly reduce the time.

First, to understand how stains happen, view my blog “What causes stains in my pool?” Once you have an idea how they got there it may be easier to understand how to get rid of them.

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Often, yellowing stains in pools are a form of algae. Before buying stain removal chemicals, just add your favorite shock to see if this removes the stains. If not, move on to plan B!

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If the stain is just in one spot try placing a chlorine tab right on top of the stain. In a few hours the stain should either be gone or on its way. If not, try an acid spot remover. Basically, it is a bottled container that is filled with muriatic acid (BE VERY CAREFUL DOING THIS) and then attached to a pole and placed on the stain. Most stains will be removed in a few minutes.

It is called the Out Spot Stain Remover.

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For larger stains, or the whole pool, it is best to know what type of stain you have so that you’re not buying expensive chemicals that won’t work. Most stain removal chemicals give you an idea of what they will remove, but to make sure to try Jacks Magic Stain Identification Kit ). It contains products to conduct three different tests and once identified, tells you which treatments will work the best.

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However, if you’re like me—cheap—try a household test. Using 3 or 4 tablets of vitamin C, drop them on the stain and in a few minutes you should see a removal or lighting of the stain. The vitamin C contains ascorbic acid, a major acid in stain removal products. This works well and your pool should get fewer colds!! OK, enough of the poor jokes, sorry.

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With a positive response to the vitamin test, you can use Stain Free by Natural Chemistry. Works great and easy to use, we use it in our pool maintenance business.

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If there is no response to the test kit or the vitamins, then you may have to soften up the stains a little and try again. To do this you will need to calculate the water volume in your pool— don’t guess, it can cause problems you don’t need.

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We are talking about an acid bath, not an acid wash. Acid washes are expensive and remove a layer of the pool surface to remove stains. A bath just softens up the stains. If you are not good with projects and don’t have the time, have a pool maintenance company do this for you.

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To do the bath add 1 gallon of muriatic acid for every 2,000 gallons of water in the pool. Run the pool for 48 hours and then re-test. Then rebalance the pool’s PH and Alkalinity. Do not add chlorine yet— add the stain removal products based on the test results following the instructions on the product used. Most products work best in a low to no chlorine level.

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Now cautions: DO NOT SWIM. If you’re going to try the bath be ready to do the whole process including the stain removal and rebalancing. You don’t want to leave the acid in the water too long as it will start to eat away at the pool surface. Have an older pool or don’t know the history of your pool, (i.e., has it ever been acid washed before) you may want to cut the acid in half or 1 gallon for every 4,000 gallons of water.

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Once the stains have been removed and are dissolved into the water— you’re almost done. The filter should be cleaned often during the following 2 weeks; however, this will not get all the particles out. Adding a sequestrate can help capture the particles and their removal.

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Pool water can only hold so much dissolved particles (also called turbidity), once at its max those particles will again drop to the bottom and sides re-staining the pool. Take it from me, drain about ½ of the pool water and add fresh water which reduces turbidity. Then adding a sequestrate on a regular basis should keep your pool looking like new.

The right one for you will depend on what part of the country you are located in, what you are trying to heat and how often you will be using it.

Gas and electric heaters can push a lot of heat out quickly, but with the cost of utilities, both can become very expensive to run.  My experience in Florida has been that when I wanted to use the pools with an attached hot tub/spa, the temps where often cool—running around 60 during the night and 70s during the day.   In-ground pools and spas seem to take on the coldest temps so trying to heat the water from 60° to 100° in a hot tub/spa you first have to heat up the concrete as well.

This has taken 45 minutes just to heat the water to mid 80s and then another 15-20 minutes to go the rest of the way (a larger BTU heater can decrease the time).  Therefore, not only did I have to plan ahead an hour and a half to use my spa, I also just used 20-30 gallons of gas or more.  I don’t think I would try to heat up a 15,000 gallon pool at $3.50+ per gallon. As a result, we decided a better way was needed. So a solar blanket was added, which did increase the water temp a little during the day but only a little. It seems to work better at holding the heat in once the pool/spa is heated.

Adding Solar Heat, which after the initial cost of the product and installation, will cost you basically nothing but is limited to sunny days.  Adding the blanket and running the solar all day will bring the temps up in the 75 – 80 degree range even with ambient temps in the 60’s. Using the gas heater to increase the temps the extra 20 degrees takes a lot less time and money becomes more affordable.  Solar heat with a solar blanket can increase the swimming season as well.  We use our pool April thru December, but to be honest, although the water is warm, getting out can be a shivering experience–keep the towels close.

Heat Pumps are a great alternative—especially good in keeping both the pool and spa warm, and since it does not use gas or electricity to heat the water, it is very cost effective.  Heat Pumps are not as fast as gas units, but will keep your entire pool and spa warm when running it daily, and cost about 75% less than gas.  Heating up a spa to the 100 degree mark will take a little more time as well but the savings in money will allow you to use it more often.  Again, keep a solar blanket on the surface to keep the heat in when not in use.  See “Calculating Heat Pump Run Times” on the blog to compute time. In addition, there are models that also will work when outdoor temps are 45 degrees of less.

You can make up your own mind as to what will work for your situation:

Gas/Electric for quick heating of spas;

Heat Pump for economical heating of entire pool and spa; or

Solar to heat pool and spa, limited to sunny and daytime hours.

In any case, I would suggest a solar blanket to cover the entire pool/spa.  This will keep the water warmer over night and on cloudy days.

Dirt, metals (blown into the pool by wind or dropped in by rain), used up chemicals, and fertilizers are just some of the items that cause stains in pools. Generally they happen slowly over time.

Water can dissolve and hold many items, but at some point it can’t hold any more. When circulating, pools have a current that moves these particles around until they either get sucked into the main drain or skimmed off the top via the skimmer and are trapped in the filter. Running the system 6 to 8 hours per day means that 18 to16 hours a day those particles are settling down at the bottom of the pool or on the sides. Usually they gather where there are dead spots in the pool (areas that don’t get water movement). Dead spots can be seen easily as this is where dirt and debris always seem to gather.

Other stains are brought in by bathers. Sun tan lotions, natural oils especially on the feet are ground into the bottom of the pool on steps or where ever the most activity seems to happen. Chlorine manages to either clean up the particles or bleach the color so that they are unseen, which can also add to the stain problems.

Prevention is the main tool used to combat stains. Brushing the pool, sides and bottom, help move the settled particles back into the pool current for filtering. Keeping the pool filter clean will help it filter out the dirt. Chemical in balance, high or low PH or Alkalinity will lead to staining or white crusty deposits on tile and grout areas. Enough chlorine can remove lotions and oils while crusty deposits may have to be burned off using muriatic acid.

I always hear the same story from new customers: “I brush my pool and I use a vacuum”. When I ask how often they clean the filter, the response is “oh at least once every month or so”. I believe the “or so” time is 3-6 months! In our pool maintenance business in Orlando, we hose off cartridge filters weekly and back wash DE filters every 90 days. We find that keeping the filter clean keeps the pool clean and we spend a lot less time manually vacuuming.

There are 3 things that need to be done for every pool: Brushing, Cleaning Filter, and Chemical Balancing. These, if done regularly, will solve a lot of staining problems. There are some particles that are so small that they are difficult to filter out such as iron, copper, or other minerals to name a few. To solve this problem there are additives such as Jacks Magic that are sequestrates, or chemicals that surround metals in the water making them heavier and larger allowing them to then be filtered out.

http://www.poolfiltercartridgesonline.com/poolsuppliescart/pc/Chemicals-c137.htm
The old saying is that there are 2 types of pools: those that are stained, and those that are going to be stained.